Yu Jiang Tham

Dream it. Build it.

Build your very own drink mixing robot! (part 1)

I built a robot that mixes drinks named Bar Mixvah.  It utilizes an Arduino microcontroller switching a series of pumps via transistors on the physical layer, and the MEAN stack (MongoDB, Express.js, Angular.js, Node.js) and jQuery for the frontend and backend.  In this post, I’ll teach you how I made it.  You can follow along and build one just like it!  I’ve also put the 3d model (blender), stl files, and the code up on GitHub for you guys to download.  See the link at the bottom of the page.  Here’s the video of the robot:



First, a little bit more about the robot.  The entire thing costs approximately $180 to make.  All of the parts are 3d printed, so you’ll need a 3d printer to build this.  I used the MakerBot Replicator 2X, but any 3d printer should do.  Total time to print the pieces is about 18 hours, depending on your settings, and assembly wiring, and  Here’s a list of parts that need to be purchased:

Other tools required for the job are: a hacksaw to cut two of the 12″ rods in half, a wire stripper, soldering iron, and solder to connect the wire to the pin connectors and coaxial power connector, and a multimeter to check your work.

For the first part of this tutorial, I’ll focus on the 3d model, printing, and assembling the physical robot.  The second part of the tutorial deals with the code, and the third part will deal with the operation of the robot.



Bar Mixvah is designed to use a system of 5 peristaltic pumps that are switched by 5 bipolar junction transistors (TIP120), all controlled by an Arduino, which itself is controlled by the Johnny-Five package on the node.js/express web server that is running on your laptop/windows tablet (or maybe Raspberry Pi?  I haven’t tried).  Having it on a web server allows users to order from any device, be it a phone, tablet, or other laptop that can connect to your WiFi access point’s internal network.  Practicality-wise, maybe it’s not necessary.  However, in my experience, people seem to enjoy ordering from a tablet that they’re holding in their hands more  than a stationary screen attached to the robot.

The physical design of Bar Mixvah around the usage of 5/16″x12″ steel rods.  I chose this length and size because they’re sturdy, readily available at your local hardware store, and not too big or small.  They’re also relatively cheap at ~$2-3 per piece, depending on where you buy from.  The problem with 3d printing is that it’s goddamn slow.  If you want to build a medium sized robot like this one, it would take days to print all of the necessary parts.  In fact, you don’t even need to print these parts; you could fasten them together using plenty of other methods.  However, I don’t have access to a metal shop, am a terrible welder, and wanted a friendly looking robot, so I chose this combination of 3d printing the joints and connecting them via metal shafts.

Here’s a screenshot of the 3d model, which, fortunately, looks exactly like the real thing after I finished building it.  Ah, the miracles of science!



Printing the Parts

The stl files can mostly be printed in the orientation that they are in, however two files should be rotated 180 degrees on the x-axis so that they can be printed without major supports.  These two pieces are Center – Board Cover – Top.stl and Center – Common Drink Channel.stl.  Additionally, Center – Pump Holder.stl should be printed flat by rotating it 90 degrees so that no support pieces are needed.  You will need to turn on printing with supports to ensure that the holes where we will be inserting the 5/16″ steel rods are printed to the right size.

One more thing that has been brought to my attention: the .stl files are may be 10x smaller than they should be in your 3d printing software.  If that’s the case, you will need to scale up the objects 10x in all dimensions.  It seems to happen regardless of the 3d software that I use when I convert to .stl.  No idea why.


The Peristaltic Pumps

What is a peristaltic pump?  If the word sounds familiar to you, it’s because you most likely heard of peristalsis in one of your biology classes at some point in time.  Peristalsis is the system that your body uses to swallow food.  Your throat muscles contract and relax in a way to create a waveform that pushes food in your throat down into your stomach.  Peristaltic pumps work on the same principle, albeit with a slightly different execution.  The clear plastic tube extends through the pump, and rollers propelled by a DC motor create a waveform that pushes liquid through the tube.  Peristaltic pumps are safe and hygienic because liquid never actually contacts any part of the pump; only the plastic tubing is ever in contact with the liquid.

The peristaltic pumps come with some very short plastic tubing.  This is obviously inadequate for our current application, so we’ll have to replace the plastic tubing.  This requires us to take apart the pump.  Fortunately, this is not a hard thing.  Instead of trying to explain it, you can view the following video to figure out how it is done.



Before connecting any wires, you’ll want to do all of the soldering.  You’ll have to solder the 5.5mm x 2.1mm coaxial power connector to two jumper wires, one for the positive lead and one for the negative lead.  Plug in your 12V DC power supply to the wall, then plug the coaxial power connector into the DC power supply.  Use your multimeter to find out which lead is positive and negative by placing the probes on two of the leads until you find that the multimeter says 12V; those are you positive and negative leads (if it says -12V, then you’ve got the positive and negative leads switched).  Unplug the coaxial power connector.  Strip two wires and solder one to each of the coaxial power connector’s leads.  After you’re done soldering, wrap any exposed metal around the leads in electrical tape.

Next, you’ll want to solder wires to the leads of the peristaltic pumps.  The positive lead of the pump should be labeled, so you should not need to guess.  If it is not labeled, you will just need to make note of which way the pump is turning and make sure that all of them are turning in the same direction.  Don’t worry about the polarity of the leads on the pump breaking anything, since connecting them backwards will just make the pump go in the opposite direction.  However, I want to emphasize that you’ll probably want to ensure all of the pumps are pumping clockwise (if they are facing you; you can see through the tiny circle in the middle which direction they are pumping when turned on).  After this is done, once again wrap the leads in electrical tape.



Here’s where it gets a little bit tricky.  The actual wiring is not too complicated, but it requires a little bit of finesse due to the confines of space that we are working with.  Since we are fitting everything on a single breadboard, we need to ensure everything is placed in the right spot.

In case you haven’t used a breadboard in a while, each of the numbers running down the breadboard indicate an individual node.  The center divides the two sides, so they are separate nodes.  The (+) rail running up the left and right side of the breadboard is one node per side, and it is the same with the (-) rail.

The first thing that you should do before getting any wiring done is to hook up your pumps individually and ensure they are all working.  The photo below shows a little bit more complex of a circuit.  To check if it’s working, you can just connect the coaxial power connector and pump on a breadboard and plug in the power and ensure that the pump works.


Here’s the wiring diagram for the robot.  As you can see, it’s relatively simple:


The tough part is that there is not much space, so you may need to have a set of needle-nosed pliers ready to put some of the things in.  I recommend adding everything except transistors in first.  Here’s how my breadboard looked like after I finished wiring it up:

IMG_2514 wiring2

Obviously, yours may look slightly different.  However, I recommend placing the Arduino’s nano so that its USB port is on the edge of either side of the breadboard.



After printing all of the pieces, remember which piece is which based on the 3d model.  Remove all of the support pieces from the 3d printed items with pliers and/or a flathead screwdriver.  It is likely that it will be a very tight fit for the steel rods, so you’ll need to push the rods in with a lot of force.  I recommend using gloves.


Also, the order in which you assemble the robot IS important.  Here’s the order that I used to assemble.  Basically, you need to remember to assemble the middle parts first before connecting the left and right sides to them.

  1. Insert all 5 of the pump holders onto one of the steel rods
  2. Insert the drink tray into the center of two of the steel rods
  3. Insert the breadboard holder (bottom piece) into the center of one steel rod
  4. Assemble the left side, then assemble the right side
  5. Insert the steel rods for the drink tray, pump holders, and breadboard holder into the left side
  6. Connect all of the parts of the right side
  7. Insert each of the pumps into a pump holder and screw them in with two #4 screws each
  8. Attach the center channel to the top center section using two #6 screws
  9. Tape the breadboard to the center of the top-middle section, ensuring that the top piece of this section will fit over it
  10. Wire everything up based on the circuit schematic
  11. Place the top piece (labeled #BarMixvah in the photo below) over the breadboard, moving wires around until everything fits snugly inside
  12. Insert two #6 screws through the screw hole and tighten the nuts at the bottom to secure it in place



Well, that’s all for this week.  Let me know if you have any questions in the comments and I’ll try my best to answer them.

GitHub link: https://github.com/ytham/barmixvah

Note that the 3D model and stl files are located in the CAD/ folder, and they are printed with the MakerBot Replicator 2X.

Stay tuned for part 2, the software design!

Follow me on twitter: @yujiangtham



  1. Great!!.

  2. Looking forward to part 2.
    Thats some great work, I’m gonna build that thing!

  3. Do you have any plans on selling this as a kit, as many of us don’t have access to a 3D printer.


    • At this time I have no plans to sell it as a kit. If you don’t have a 3d printer, you can still build the robot. If you can find some material that will stick the metal rods together (maybe getting some clay and the hardening it, or welding the metal rods together perhaps), then it can be done. The meat of the robot is the software that controls it. I’m still writing part 2, which will be coming soon. Thanks! 🙂

      • You could probably make this using Sugru or you could use a 3d printing service like Shapeways or Ponoko. Only problem with those services is that they don’t want to recognize the .stl files for some reason. They keep saying the paths are out of range.

        Any suggestions on altering them so I could get these printed would be appreciated.

        • To be honest, I’m not sure. I’ve never used any of these services before, but I’m guessing that it’s because the coordinates of the .stl files are not centered at <0,0,0> due to the fact since they were exported in-place from the .blender model. There should be some sort of way to center and lay the prints flat. If you can do that, I think it might work.

      • Ryan Klingert

        May 27, 2014 at 10:53 pm

        I’m probably missing something but when opening the .stl files in maker ware in order to print them on my makerbot 2x they are abnormally small, when using the recommenced IN to MM conversion they are to big for the build platform, any suggestions ?

        • Sorry, I forgot to mention this in my blog post. I’ve updated it to mention the following: for some reason, .stl files seem to be shrunk 10x in all dimensions. I have no idea why. Happens w/ not just blender, but other software too. You need to scale it (keeping the aspect ratio) 1000% in MakerWare.

  4. Errol Minihan

    May 27, 2014 at 6:01 pm

    Looks great, order all my stuff on amazon and ebay here in the UK, going to start the 3d printer going tomorrow, can’t wait for part 2 and 3 and get this working……..

  5. Cool! I’m keen to build one, and yours is the best I’ve seen yet … I just ordered my pumps!
    Looking forward to part 2.

  6. Could this be scaled up to 10-12 drink sources, maybe using a standard Arduino if the Nano isn’t capable? This is an awesome project and something I’d really like to try out

    • Absolutely. It should support as many pumps as there are digital out pins. On the Nano I believe it’s 12 or 13. The main thing is that you need a power source that will support 12 pumps. Each pump is rated at 300mA, so 12*.3 = 3.6A. Therefore, you’ll probably want a 12V DC power supply that is 4+ amps. They’re pretty cheaply available on Amazon. 🙂

      (You’ll also probably want to modify the UI a little bit so that you have 2 rows of 6 pumps instead of rows of 5 pumps).

      • Hey,
        Did you measure the Amp draw of the pumps? I only have a single 12v psu (2A) and the pump jumped between 200ma and 2A+. Not sure why maybe its just my cheap multimeter.

    • If you go beyond that, you will need to update your chassis connector more than likely to a 2.5mm from the 2.1mm that is shown in the parts list.

  7. Which 3D printer did you use, I would like to buy one, any suggestion?

    • Any 3d printer should do, but you’ll need to ensure the calibration is correct for the 5/16″ steel rods to be able to slide in w/ some friction. The rods should not be loose. I used Makerbot Replicator 2X w/ ABS plastic.

  8. Very cool. I’m an engineer at Microsoft and would like to see if we can get this ported to the .NET Micro Framework platform (e.g. NetDuino). Please let me know if you’re interested.

    • Very interesting. Unfortunately, I have absolutely no experience in .NET. However, all of the code is on GitHub (link is in the article) so you’re free to use it as you wish. Thanks!

  9. This looks great. Thanks for posting up the instructions.
    I’ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while and other than not knowing how to set up the software side due to a complete lack of programming skills (so looking forward to seeing how you did that) I was reluctant to use these 12v peristaltic pumps. They are rated at 100ml per minute so thought they might be a little slow. How did you find the pour time for drinks with a large single ingredient or mixer?

    • No problem. The pumps are pretty slow, but it’s not bad if your drink has 3 or more ingredients. However, you’re correct in that 100ml/min is not the fastest. The problem is that there aren’t too many options for cheap peristaltic pumps. I couldn’t find any that were faster that were cheap enough to have at least 4 different ingredients.

  10. Only 12 commits?! What a g.

  11. What units are your Blender models in? When I import the .stl files into my 3D slicer program the parts are incredibly small and they need to be scaled up. This looks like a cool project I look forward to your future posts. Thanks.

    • Units are in centimeters, but it looks like there’s some issue w/ Makerware thinking it is millimeters. Apply a 1000% scale to each .stl object (preserve aspect ratio) and everything should be the right size.

  12. WOW !! your project is Amazing .. I will certainly try to make one for my self. 3D Printing and drinks is the next best thing happening to Mankind.

  13. Great project. I have a couple of questions how is the menu programmed for this do we need to program each menu? I mean to say let’s suppose I need a drink of 200ml with different ingredents do I need to program the drink to mix those ingredents ? My other question is there a way lets say I find a drink on internet which says to mix different proportions and I can just copy that text and able to decode the ingredents and store it as a menu automatically can we do this ?

    • I’ll go over the details of how the drink system works in part 2, which should be done in the next few days. Ingredients are all in ratios, so there is no need to program for different sizes. As for your other question, the current system is a form to be filled out. If you want, you can write a parser in which you can copy and paste ingredients, but many websites use all sorts of different formats and names for ingredients and variations in how they are laid out. The way you’re thinking of would require a little bit of machine learning as well to match the text to your list of available ingredients. It does not seem trivial in the least, but the code is on github so you can go ahead and give it a whirl if you’d like. If you end up doing it, be sure to send a pull request!

  14. So your Arduino has to be permanently connected to the PC/Mac running the web-server, correct? How about switching to RPi so you can have the web server running directly on the board? Use a wifi dongle to connect to your local network and then you can have a truly standalone unit. The software would remain more or less the same. You could use a voltage regulator to power the RPi from the same 12V source, if you have enough amperage to spare.

    • That’s a great idea! Unfortunately I haven’t had as much experience with the RPi as I would like, so I decided to just stick w/ what I knew for this project. My next project will definitely involve the Pi since I want to do something more compact. Thanks!

    • What about getting rid of the Arduino completly?
      Since the Pi has some GPIO, we could use the ULN2803A and everything should work fine.
      Maybe I’ll throw a circuit together and test it.
      I have to look up, if Jonny five can communicate with the Pi pins.

  15. Hallo,

    to make it simple, Change the 5x TIP120 w/ Diodes and the 5x 2.2kOhm resistor to one ULN2803A:
    It is a Darlington Transistor Arrays witch Needs no additional components!
    You can drive it direct with the Arduino an the ULN2803A can direct drive the pump.
    With one single chip, you can drive all 🙂

  16. I think I just found my next project. Looking forward to the rest of your posts.
    If I proceed forward, I’m happy to help you get this converted to a Raspberry Pi based unit.

  17. When are the next tutorials coming?!

  18. Very clever and interesting device. I know this may seem like a strange question but, if you would not mind, how long did it take you to design this? I am always challenging my team to “think simple” when they are working on proof-of-concept ideas. Some engineers find it difficult to boil a project down to its simplest terms in order to demonstrate the principles. Bravo to you, Yu Chiang!

    • Hi Mitch, thanks for your kind words. The total time from design and planning to doing the software to printing and building the robot was about 2 weeks. If you add in the time it took to receive my shipment of stuff from China, probably a total of 3-4 weeks.

  19. Great design and thanks for sharing. I’ve noticed an issue with the “Center – Common Drink Channel – Lower Piece.stl” file. It seems to have a edge sticking out the side of it. I’ve confirmed this when scaling up in Makerware. Also, the file fails when attempting to upload to NetFabb to see if it can be repaired.

  20. Awesome project! Can’t wait for part 2!

    I started building one awhile ago. With a front end running on a PC, SQLite database for the drinks and ingredients and the GUI done in Java, with an arduino back end. Got about 60% of the java code done and got distracted by another project. Hats off to you for a good clean design and getting it done so fast!

    I’m going to have to download your source and get to looking through it. Interested in how you did the interface and how the database is setup; never worked with mongo before.

    Thanks for posting all of your files and work also. Is part 2 done yet?? 🙂

  21. Amazing project. the idea is simple and excellent.
    I keen on to realize this great thing.
    Very thanks to share this experience with us !!

  22. This is cool. I’m new to reading wiring diagrams, can you post a better picture of your board. I’d like to see if i can compare yours to the wire diagram and learn from it. Thx.

    • Yes i agree! More detailed pictures would help us none electrical engineers out a bunch.

      • I’ve added an additional photo with better lighting. Hopefully this helps!

        • Hi Yu, Fantastic work documenting and sharing this. I’m a little amateur when it comes to breadboards and arudino’s also. Any additional photos, or views on which components need to be in which pins of the breadboard would be appreciated. I know it’s hard to likely get a shot but more is better ifyou can get all angles. I can’t see the far side of the board in the photo you uploaded to know whether I’m connecting the right pins. I can try and parse the electrical diagram but I’m rusty. Anyone else’s help / links to photos also appreciated!

  23. What size tube are you using ?

  24. Errol Minihan

    June 5, 2014 at 5:07 pm

    Got my pumps from China , got myULN2803A , still can’t get a decent 3d from the replicator dual, but I will get there, just waiting for part 2 and 3 get this baby going……

  25. Hi, nice work and great idea!!

    How many drink you can make with 5 ingredients? I see your db in your zip folder, but there are more of 5 ingredients.. I not understand, how we can maximize our cocktails with few ingredients?

    Thank you very much!

  26. Hi Yu

    Thanks for the guide ! I really appreciate it, would it be possible to get some more images of the wiring ? it´s still a bit hard to figure it all out from the drawing + the one photo that is up now. Especially how the TIP120 connect up. I’m currently trying to do the wiring setup mentioned above + one using a ULN2803A.

    The ULN2803A is working until the point where it should power the DC motor, but it only output 0.2 volts to the motor, which apparently is by design, when I have figured out how to bypass that part (any input is very appreciated), I’ll share the wiring scheme .

    Getting it all up and running on a Raspberry pi is then the next step 🙂

  27. I am not certain the place you are getting your information, but
    great topic. I needs to spend some time studying more
    or understanding more. Thank you for magnificent
    information I used to be searching for this info for my mission.

  28. Hey Yu,

    I noticed that the “Center – Drink Tray.stl” has a piece of material missing from the model that is causing an interesting bug in Makerware; it is interpreting the void and trying to fill in the material. I’ve attached some screenshots, if they will help.
    Could you please look into fixing the hole?



  29. Great project, good implementation. Good use of 3D printing. However, you have built a machine not a robot. They are not identical.

  30. hey, great work, i’m thinking about building it at home, but i got a question before i start.
    can you tell me how long it takes to get an 0.5l cocktail or better said, how much is the flowrate of the peristaltic pump (and of the RS-360 too) ?

  31. We built one, but I couldn’t see using a PC. So we used a Raspberry Pi with an Arduberry for the I/O.
    Arduino (Arduberry in this case) programmed to accept the drink order as a formatted string from Python running on the Pi. It then handles delivering/mixing. A lot of fun (except for writing the ardunio code) if anyone wants the code (for either or all components) let me know.

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  33. Mark Tomlinson

    Yes very much, please share.

  34. Hi,

    I love your tutorial and have ordered all the items to try and build this. But do you think you can take some more pictures of the breadboard from different angles. I’m not the best at reading circuit diagrams.

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  36. 蠕动泵 你们那里多少钱 一个我这里好贵 。

  37. When i power my pump the shaft slips on the internal rollers resulting in no actual pumping. The shaft just spins. If i remove the tubing there doesn’t seem to be any slipping and the rollers spin with the shaft. Has anyone else seen this issue? Could it be too much power to the motor?

  38. Have you ever thought about adding a little bit more than just
    your articles? I mean, wha yoou say is fundamental and everything.
    Nevertheless imaagine iff you added some great images or video clips to give your posts more, “pop”!Your content is excellent but with images and videos,
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    Fantastic blog!

  39. Hi,

    Great job ! It inspired me for my project.
    I’ve used the same pumps & diagram for a hydroponic setup, but I got an issue: first pump is ok, but pump 2-3-4 are activated at the same time, pump 5 is ok.
    I changed my sketch, tried activating pump 3 only (but then pump 2 & 4 are working too). I checked my breadboard, changed to a overboard… the same thing.
    Any idea ?
    Thanks !

    • I found my error 🙂 The TIP120 have the dissipator connected to Base, so if they touch each other, then the trigger is short circuited !

      So watch out when you have multiple ones, don’t put them on the same radiator, and isolate them !

    • hello sir!
      how much did the whole thing cost? just roughly…

  40. Hello, i need your help.
    I want to add a switch that´s dected the glass. And when no glass on the switch it doesen´t start the pump but shows in the Frotend (Webinterface) “Please put a glass under the spout”.
    I know the hardwarepart, but i doesen´t know what i have to do in the backend and frontend.

  41. Hi, I’ve been trying to 3D print the pieces from 3D printing websites, but they all say that the dimensions of the product are too large for their machines. Any ideas why this is happening or suggestions for which sites to use?


  42. Duuuuude, that´s amazing!
    i also appreciate that u recomment to all these guys here!
    you are awesome! maybe the day will come when i try to rebuild this thing too!
    will save ur URL 🙂
    thanks for your work, your share and merry christmas dude!
    greetings from germany!

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  44. I am not sure if you still check this but do you power the arduino and the pumps from the same source or two different sources?

  45. Could I build this with an Arduino Uno? I don’t have an Arduino Nano and they’re essentially the same thing (specs-wise), so is that possible, or no?

  46. Oliver Gerrard

    May 27, 2015 at 3:52 pm


    Can anybody please send me a picture of their wiring so I can check with mine. Something is wrong as the bar isn’t detecting the pumps but I’m an amateur and could do with the help!


  47. I trying to make one just like your, I need more accurate from the pump. I want to use it to mix e juice. I just dont get how is the Arduino going to work with the pump to get the exact proportion from the liquid.

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  50. Hi! I’d like to make a similar project only I’m using a netduino and valves instead of pumps. How can I know which type of transistor and what resistor I have to use?

  51. Does someone have a clear diagram of the breadboard or good photos of how this should be wired up? I am a software guy and don’t understand how to go from logical diagram to physical diagram.

  52. Everything is working especially the circuit and yet I do have a questions, pin 7 is working perfectly but when it comes to pin 3 to pin 6. It doesn’t work at all, is it just me or I’m lacking of something. Help please

    • Have you tried switching the PIN’s that dont work to PIN 7 just to insure your circuit is correct? Sounds like a wiring problem

  53. Hi,

    I was able to run through your instructions specified by you and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the work you share. Though i have few issues and concerns that i wanted to clarify,
    1. When the system is switched on i don’t see any previously add drinks on the main page.
    2. Is this has to be connected to system only to make this application run or it can be hosted into cloud etc….. when we can excuse it remotely.

    Can you please help me, Thanks in advance.

  54. Instead of using the pumps you can put the bottles looking down and let gravity act with this 12v activated water switch:


    It is normally closed and when have the 12v it opens, so instead of pumping will let the water flow down.

    I havent tried yet, Im wating the shipment of the valves.

  55. Has someone got a clear diagram of the breadboard or good photos of how this should be wired up please.

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  57. I am almost completely finished with the build. The only issue I am having is that my pumps default to being on when I connect the power supply. When a drink is made the pumps that should be running run, and the pumps that shouldn’t do not run, but when the drink is complete all the pumps are on again.

    I tested the voltage outputs of the pins when the pumps are running and not running. When my pumps are on there is 0V and when the pumps are stopped (during making a drink) there is 5V. Any suggestions on what I might have done wrong?

  58. That’s a wonderful project, excellent! Good work. If anyone require the peristaltic pump, freley email me, thanks. Regards Amy eMail: sales@kamoer.com

  59. We built this a while back, awesome project.
    We recently got around to rewriting it to actually use a java program to run the show. Works fine on Raspbian. Threw it on GitHub if anyone else wants to go that route.

  60. I’m having a hell of a time assembling the structure. The size of the square holes seems just too tight for the steel rods. Any tips?

  61. I’ve got the breadboard almost setup but I’m afraid I’m confused on how exactly to lay the wires for the pumps. Does the powe socket connect to the arduino somewhere? I don’t see it in the image. Any help appreciated!

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  10. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | A blog for your mind
  11. Bar Mixvah is a DIY robot bartender

 | Bits & Pieces from the Embedded Design World
  12. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | review site
  13. Drink mixing robot | The Third Screen
  14. BarMixvah: 3D Printing a Robotic Bartender - CNCCookbook CNC Blog CNCCookbook CNC Blog
  15. В Калифорнии напечатали робота-бармена по имени Bar Mixvah - PrintReality
  16. Bar Mixvah le robot qui prépare vos cocktails | MonUnivers3D
  17. Meet Bar Mixvah, a robot bartender you can make yourself | buzzcarl
  18. Bar Mixvah - Not A Ritual Right Of Passage , So Much As A Do-It-Yourself Bartending Robot | Heeb
  19. Build your own drink-mixing robot for $180 | News | Geek.com | What Happen Today?!?
  20. A 3D Printed Robot Bartender - 3D Printing Industry
  21. May Tronix Linkdump « TikiRobot!
  22. Roundup: Mcor, Structured Polymers, Hasbro, and Drinks
  23. Bar Mixvah is 3D-printed automatic cocktail-making machine | HomeCrux
  24. Hvis du er både festabe og nørd – så se lige med her | Computer Viden information
  25. Votre propre bar automatisé avec l'Arduino! - tutoarduino.com
  26. Build your very own drink mixing robot! (part 3) | Yu Jiang Tham
  27. Cocktail Roboter - Cocktails auf Knopfdruck
  28. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | AIVAnet
  29. Bar Mixva: The Drink Mixing Robot | MAKE
  30. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | xvid entertainment news
  31. فهرست مجله هکرمانسلی شماره 51واینسا برو جلو
  32. L'impression 3D fait recouvrer la vue aux aveugles | 3DPrint4Ever
  33. 음료수 만드는 로봇 바 믹스바(Bar Mixva) | Make: Korea
  34. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | UxTouch
  35. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer · Dfood.tv
  36. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | 3Doem
  37. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer | WordPress
  38. Build your own robotic bartender with Arduino and a 3D printer - Mail Slice | Mail Slice
  39. stampante 3d con arduino per cocktail | Magazine TIM Official
  40. Drukowany "Barman" - Fucco Magazine
  41. beta.tutoarduino.com - Votre propre bar automatisé avec l’Arduino!
  42. Pi Bar | Drops.Science
  43. Pi Bar – Will Genovese
  44. Let this robot bartender make your drink. | Brainy-Bits Canada
  45. Your Source for 3D Printing News | Print A Drink: Creative Robotics Lab Develops a Martini 3D Printed, Not Stirred
  46. グラスに注いだお酒の中に文字が浮かぶ!近未来のバーができるかも? | トレンド最前線!まとめ速報
  47. Votre propre bar automatisé avec l'Arduino! - TutoArduino

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